[p07r0457]

The maintenance schedule for our QX30s calls for an oil change every 10,000 miles and a tire rotation every 5,000 miles. My QX30 has 10,000 miles, so it was time for it's first oil change. As a DIYer, I enjoy the opportunity to perform some basic maintenance on my QX30.

As far as services go, this is one of the easier services to accomplish for a DIYer.

 

[p07r0457]

For the tire rotation, you need the following tools:

• A way to safely lift the vehicle. More on that, below.
• Locking lug nut key (if equipped)
• 17mm deep-well socket (insulated sockets are preferred, as they reduce risk of damaging the wheels)
• Torque wrench that can handle 96 lb-ft
• M14 x 1.5 Lug Bolt Guide (Optional, but highly recommended)

For lifting my QX30, I used wheel chocks and a hydraulic floor jack to place the vehicle on four (4) jack stands. This lets me level the vehicle and remove all the wheels at the same time. You can get by with one pair, if that's all you have. If you are fancy and have access to a lift, then I envy you. One day I'll get a 4-post lift... But until then, I make due.

The Lug Bolt Guide is optional. You can certainly perform a tire rotation without it. However, it makes the job much easier if you have one. They're cheap, so if you are a DIYer they're worth the investment.

We start with the vehicle still on the ground. We need to loosen the lug nuts, and it helps if the wheels are touching the ground so they don't rotate when we loosen the lug nuts. An impact gun will spin off lug nuts if the wheels are in the air, but I did this service at 1am and I didn't want to disturb my neighbors by turning on my air compressor; so I went old-school and did everything by hand.

Use the 17mm deep well socket and a suitable ratchet to loosen -- but do not remove -- the lug nuts. I recommend against using your torque wrench to remove fasteners, as it can cause wear on the torque wrench and put it out of calibration. I have a long-handled 1/2" ratchet that I use.

Now, safely lift the vehicle. I blocked the rear wheels with wheel chocks.

Looking under the vehicle, from the front. There is a black plastic/rubber pad in the center of the vehicle, behind the engine. This is the jack point, as specified in the Infiniti Service Manual. Place your hydraulic jack underneath the pad, and lift the vehicle.

Both front wheels will come off the ground.

Place two jack stands underneath the jack pads on the sides of the vehicles, immediately behind the front wheels.

Lower the hydraulic jack so that the vehicle is resting on the jack stands.

Look under the vehicle, from the rear. There is a crossmember, in the center of the vehicle, that the rear control arms are bolted to. Place your hydraulic jack underneath the crossmember, and lift the vehicle.

Set your rear jackstands on the jack pads on the sides of the vehicle immediately in front of the rear wheels. Lower the jack so the vehicle is resting on the jack stands.

You can now remove the loose lug nuts, and rotate the tires. Depsite my QX30 being AWD, I follow the "Forward Cross" pattern since it is biased heavily towards the front.

To aide in installation of the wheels, I use a lug bolt guide. This is a tapered rod that screws into one of the lug bolt holes and allows me to rest the wheel on the guide while I thread in a few lug bolts. They are not required to do a tire rotation, but they certainly make the job faster and easier. They're not expensive, and I recommend that you obtain at least one if you plan on rotating your own tires.

I can rest the weight of the wheel on the guide, and both of my hands remain free.

Once I've threaded in four of the lug bolts, I remove the guide and install the fifth lug bolt.

Torque the lug bolts to 96 lb-ft

Your tire rotation is complete.

 

[p07r0457]

For the oil change, you need the following tools:

• 8mm socket and compatible ratchet
• 13mm socket and compatible ratchet
• 27mm socket and compatible ratchet
• Long extension for ratchet (minimum 12", I used 18")
• Torque wrench that can handle 30 lb-ft
• Drain pan or container to drain used oil into

You also need the following parts:

• Oil filter (I use Mann HU7116Z)
• Copper drain plug washer, 14mm ID / 20mm OD (Infiniti Part# 11206-HG00H)
• Six (6) quarts MB 229.5 certified oil (I use Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W40)

I like to remove the oil filter, as the first step. This helps the oil drain more smoothly, as air can easily enter from the top. To remove the oil filter, you'll need a 27mm socket, a long extension, and a compatible ratchet.

The oil filter cap is easily visible at the rear of the engine on the passenger side.

Unscrew the oil filter cap.

Once unscrewed, remove the oil filter cap with your hand. The oil filter will come out with the cap.

Set the oil filter cap aside. We will come back to it, later.

Remove the oil filler cap.

Go underneath the vehicle and you will see a splash shield on the passenger side of the vehicle. This must be removed.

Use an 8mm socket and compatible ratchet to remove the three (3) bolts that hold on the splash shield. The shield will easily come out once the three bolts are removed.

With the splash shield removed, the engine oil pan is visible. The drain plug is in the bottom center of the oil pan, facing the front.

Position a drain pan beneath the drain plug, and use a 13mm socket and compatible ratchet to unscrew the drain plug.

Used engine oil will drain rapidly from the oil pan.

Clean up the drain plug and inspect it. Ensure the bolt head and threads are in good shape. If the bolt looks good, reuse it. If either the threads or bolt head are damaged, replace the drain plug. ALWAYS replace the drain plug gasket with a new one.

When the oil is done draining, clean the area with a lint-free rag. Thread the drain plug and new washer into the oil pan.

Torque the drain plug down to 30 lb-ft

Go back to the oil filter cap. Remove the oil filter. It should lift right off the shaft in the cap.

I put the old filter into a zip lock bag. It keeps my work area clean, and provides a convenient way for me to store the filter and transport it for recycling. Always recycle your used oil and filters. Don't throw them in the garbage.

There are three o-rings that should be replaced at every oil change. One small, medium, and a large o-ring. Use a pick or small screw driver to aide in removal.

The new oil filter should include new o-rings, as well.

Install the new o-rings, and seat the new oil filter onto the shaft in the oil filter cap. Ensure the filter is pressed firmly and completely onto the shaft.

Re-install the oil filter cap into the oil filter housing.

Torque the oil filter housing to 18 lb-ft.

Using a funnel, fill your engine with 5.9 quarts (I just used a full six) of your desired oil. Whatever oil you choose to use should be certified to meet MB 229.5. You can see what oils are certified here: Multigrade engine oils (Specification 229.5). I am using Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W40.

Replace your oil filler cap, and start the engine. Let it idle for a couple minutes then shut the engine off. Wait at least 5 minutes, then check the oil level using the dipstick.

Add oil, if neccessary.

To reset the service reminder:

1. Turn the vehicle power to accessory mode, but do not start the engine.
2. Using the arrows on the left of the steering wheel, navigate to "TRIP".
3. Press the "OK" and "Phone" buttons, simultaneously and hold for approximately three (3) seconds.
4. A menu will appear on the instrument cluster.
5. Scroll to the option "Maintenance", and press OK.
6. Scroll to the option "Full Service", and press OK.
7. Scroll to the option "Conf. Full Serv.", and press OK.
8. Scroll to the option "Oil Grade 229.5", and press OK.
9. Confirm service was carried out by scrolling to "Yes", and press OK.

Once satisfied, your oil change is complete.

Taking the vehicle off the jackstands is the reverse process from lifting it.

 

[Zee]

Quality post for current and future QX30 owners. This thread needs to be stickied to the top of the forum.

 

[tt6]

Agreed, this is a great post! Thanks for taking the time to document this.

Did your car not come with the standard Infiniti 2 years of free oil changes or do you just prefer to DIY?

How did the Mann oil filter compare to the OEM Infiniti one? Did you happen to compare the # of pleats, filter media, looks like both use plastic end caps?

 

[p07r0457]

Did your car not come with the standard Infiniti 2 years of free oil changes or do you just prefer to DIY?

I am not aware of any "standard" free maintenance on Infiniti vehicles sold in the United States.


In the past, I have typically employed the "DIY" route for my vehicle maintenance. I briefly considered using the dealer to service our QX30, and I did speak with the service department regarding their pricing, products, and procedures for routine services. I was not satisfied with the answers I received, however; and ultimately decided that I would continue to "DIY" maintenance to ensure the correct intervals, products, and procedures were observed.

How did the Mann oil filter compare to the OEM Infiniti one? Did you happen to compare the # of pleats, filter media, looks like both use plastic end caps?

The filter I removed (factory installed) had a Mercedes "three-pointed star" logo on it. This does not surprise me, as the QX30 is essentially a Mercedes GLA250, and the QX30 engine is even assembled in Germany. The overall construction and quality seemed good. The anti-drain-back valve appears to be silicone and was tan, in color. I did not count the exact number of pleats, but they appeared to be substantially equivalent between the OEM and Mann filters.


Mann is a common OEM supplier to the European auto makers, and they are well-respected in the industry. From my research and conversations regarding Mercedes Benz products, Mann was consistently mentioned as the preferred oil filter manufacturer. I ordered a case of 10 filters, and upon examination I am pleased with my decision -- they appear to be of excellent quality and construction. The Mann filters also use a silicon anti-drain-back valve, which is white in color.

 

[tt6]

Thanks for the info! Strange, all of my previous Infiniti's came with 2 years free maintenance without me even having to ask.

I wonder if Mann manufactures the Infiniti filters? I have my last free oil change at the end of this year before I have to worry about DIY. I definitely appreciate your input and feedback as I'm the same way when it comes to service and maintenance on my vehicles if I'm paying for it. Thanks again!

 

[p07r0457]

I wonder if Mann manufactures the Infiniti filters? I have my last free oil change at the end of this year before I have to worry about DIY. I definitely appreciate your input and feedback as I'm the same way when it comes to service and maintenance on my vehicles if I'm paying for it. Thanks again!

I would suggest asking the dealer for a copy of the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the oil that they use. Then cross-reference the Mercedes BEVO listing to ensure it is of the proper viscosity and is MB229.5 certified. If it's not the correct oil, then I wouldn't use that service department -- even if it was free.



https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html

 

[tt6]

I never thought to ask for the MSDS but somehow doubt they would share it. I know that they have a separate drum of synthetic oil for use exclusively for the QX30's, although that's not really saying much either. I did try to buy some oil to read the label but they only get the QX30 oil in drums from Infiniti and don't have any in quart sizes to resell, but they do have quarts for resale for other Infiniti models. Regardless, I don't stick to the recommended 10k oil change intervals so the MB229.5 certification isn't that crucial for me. I've had my QX30 for 18 months and it has only 7k miles and has already had 3 oil changes. When I start to do my own oil changes for this car, I will most likely use a MB229.5 certified oil but will not be waiting 10k miles to change it regardless of how the Brownstone lab analysis comes back. I drain Amsoil from my other car after only 1000 miles... It helps my OCDness and let's me sleep better at night...

 

[p07r0457]

I drain Amsoil from my other car after only 1000 miles... It helps my OCDness and let's me sleep better at night...

The irony is that I've seen evidence that indicates "over-changing" oil is not good. But it's your car, so it's your call.

 

[tt6]

Yes, I'm familiar with the evidence for and against oil needing to be "broken in". Obviously there is a lot more evidence against needing it, but let's not get into the dreaded oil debate here, plenty of other forums for that...

I do think we should be careful making a blanket recommendation of the manufacturers standard maintenance schedule without including their own disclaimer: "Depending upon weather and atmospheric conditions, varying road surfaces, individual driving habits and vehicle usage, additional or more frequent maintenance may be required." (Section 9-9, 2017 Infiniti QX30 Owners Manual and Maintenance Information booklet)

The way my QX30 is driven qualifies as severe/extreme driving conditions - my wife's mon-fri commute is 1.5 miles each way with 3 traffic lights and a 35 mph limit the entire way and we live in New England so the temps are cold and/or below freezing for 4 months out of the year.

My Amsoil car only gets driven 1000 miles a year so that's just a yearly schedule and I always send off a sample to Blackstone every oil change, but that car also qualifies as severe/extreme driving conditions - racegas, 30+ psi, 4 digit rwhp.

I do stick to the manufacturers recommended schedule for my WRX daily driver.

The irony is that I've seen evidence that indicates "over-changing" oil is not good. But it's your car, so it's your call.

Did you happen to send your oil out for analysis? Would love to see the results if you did.

I've seen a few GLA250 analysis and even one after only 1300 miles of their factory fill and it didn't look pretty... but that is on a new motor that's not completely broken in yet, but the oil had been diluted to an SAE 20 viscosity, which doesn't speak well to the MB229.5 spec factory fill oil that's supposed to last 10k miles, although I suspect it will improve once the engine is completely broken in. Anomaly or not, I'm glad my first oil change was at 1500 miles for other reasons as well.

 

[p07r0457]

My Amsoil car only gets driven 1000 miles a year so that's just a yearly schedule and I always send off a sample to Blackstone every oil change, but that car also qualifies as severe/extreme driving conditions - racegas, 30+ psi, 4 digit rwhp.

I would be surprised if analysis indicates the oil life has been depleted, under those conditions. What does your analysis show?

Did you happen to send your oil out for analysis? Would love to see the results if you did.

Yes.

Iron, Copper, and Silicon were a bit high -- which is absolutely expected on the first OCI with a new engine. Otherwise, it looked pretty good. Flashpoint remained serviceable, and the TBN had plenty of life remaining, too.

I've seen a few GLA250 analysis and even one after only 1300 miles of their factory fill and it didn't look pretty... but that is on a new motor that's not completely broken in yet, but the oil had been diluted to an SAE 20 viscosity, which doesn't speak well to the MB229.5 spec factory fill oil that's supposed to last 10k miles, although I suspect it will improve once the engine is completely broken in. Anomaly or not, I'm glad my first oil change was at 1500 miles for other reasons as well.

Fuel dilation on that sample is high. That's really the only thing I'd be concerned about. On my sample I was under 0.5% fuel dilation -- which is much more reasonable.

I went 9,934 miles on my first OCI. Viscosity was 8.55 cSt @ 100 degrees C, which equates to a "heavy" 20 weight. We don't know what oil was used at the factory, so I'm not sure if this started out as a 30 weight (which Infiniti seems to prefer, based on the manual) or a 40 weight (which Mercedes seems to prefer). Either way, some sheering is expected over 10k miles. I'll be curious to see the results of my 2nd OCI, as I'll know exactly what I started with. I don't think a "heavy" 20 weight at 10k is excessive. It does confirm, to me, that I wouldn't want to run a 20 weight, from the start, however, as that would likely become too thin, over the service life.


Overall, I think the 10k OCI was a reasonable recommendation by Infiniti, and I see no evidence to suggest that I shouldn't continue to follow it.

 

[tt6]

I would be surprised if analysis indicates the oil life has been depleted, under those conditions. What does your analysis show?

I run Amsoil Dominator 15W-50 but I prefer not to tell them that or the miles run on it. I'm sure they hate me by now since I never provide any usable data for them. I do it more for a health check of my engine. The results are pretty unremarkable which is a good thing with tiny traces of lead from the leaded race fuel most likely caused by idling to warm up the car and for the turbo to cool but the oil itself comes back in great condition and definitely doesn't need to be changed. I also change and inspect the spark plugs and do a leak down and compression test every year/1000 miles. I fully admit all this is overkill but like I said, it helps with my OCDness and helps me sleep better at night. Obviously this car makes my OCD radar ping off the charts... in comparison, my WRX gets treated like a red-headed stepchild...

Iron, Copper, and Silicon were a bit high -- which is absolutely expected on the first OCI with a new engine. Otherwise, it looked pretty good. Flashpoint remained serviceable, and the TBN had plenty of life remaining, too.

Fuel dilation on that sample is high. That's really the only thing I'd be concerned about. On my sample I was under 0.5% fuel dilation -- which is much more reasonable.

I went 9,934 miles on my first OCI. Viscosity was 8.55 cSt @ 100 degrees C, which equates to a "heavy" 20 weight. We don't know what oil was used at the factory, so I'm not sure if this started out as a 30 weight (which Infiniti seems to prefer, based on the manual) or a 40 weight (which Mercedes seems to prefer). Either way, some sheering is expected over 10k miles. I'll be curious to see the results of my 2nd OCI, as I'll know exactly what I started with. I don't think a "heavy" 20 weight at 10k is excessive. It does confirm, to me, that I wouldn't want to run a 20 weight, from the start, however, as that would likely become too thin, over the service life.

Overall, I think the 10k OCI was a reasonable recommendation by Infiniti, and I see no evidence to suggest that I shouldn't continue to follow it.

Your analysis after nearly 10k miles isn't as alarming as the one I posted after only 1300 miles. I personally don't like all those wear metals floating around or having a questionable factory fill so I've always done an oil change at 1500 miles on every new car I've owned. Since MB are assembling these engines in their factory in Germany, a fairly safe assumption is that the factory fill is a 40 weight in a MB GLA250 so it dropping to a 20 in 1300 miles is scary. Your QX30 also dropping to a 20 weight after nearly 10k miles isn't too alarming but that's a littler further than I'm comfortable pushing the factory fill. Now that you are for sure using a quality 40 weight, I'd be curious how your sample looks after another 10k miles.

Are you considering getting a syringe tool to suck some oil from the dipstick to test some oil before the 10k miles? Hopefully you got the bulk test pricing from Blackstone.

 

[p07r0457]

Your QX30 also dropping to a 20 weight after nearly 10k miles isn't too alarming but that's a littler further than I'm comfortable pushing the factory fill.

I wanted to leave the factory fill in for the full OCI. It's common for factory fills to include an additional additive package, and I think that is certainly true with this engine, based on the high quantity of Zinc.

Now that you are for sure using a quality 40 weight, I'd be curious how your sample looks after another 10k miles

Yes, I plan to sample again.

Are you considering getting a syringe tool to suck some oil from the dipstick to test some oil before the 10k miles?

I do have a vacuum pump and it was my original intention to sample the oil at 5k, but I ended up not doing so. Given the factory fill tested favorably at the full 10k OCI, I'm not worried about Mobil 1 lasting 10k, so I probably won't sample again until I change the oil.

Hopefully you got the bulk test pricing from Blackstone.

I do have several containers that I keep around, at any given time. In addition to regular oil analysis of our four vehicles, I also sample transmission fluid and gear oil, periodically. Unfortunately, I've had several (more than 3) samples "lost" in the mail, so I no longer rely on the label Blackstone includes on their containers. Instead, I put the container inside of a Priority Mail envelope and must pay for additional shipping+tracking.

 

[Bartos Bartos]

Mobil1 0w40 is a very good oil, but not very suitable for our TGDI engines. It has a lot of ash, which over time will cause deposits to accumulate in the intake system and on the piston rings.
Low viscosity contributes to easier dilution of oil with fuel.
It has no Anti LPSI additives.
A better choice would be Shell Helix Ultra 0w40, Mobił1 ESP X3 0w40 (MB 229.51 / 52), Amsoil European Car Formula 0w40.
Shell is GTL, pure stable oil with Anti LSPI additive,
Mobił ESP X3 is pure C3 with the addition of Anti LSPI, very good formula before use (used in Corvette)
Amsoil has a high viscosity, it copes better with fuel

Oils like Motul and Ravenol are rather average. Motul is an ordinary average oil, Ravenol often changes its composition.

For the health of the engine, it is better to change the oil every 6-8 thousand miles. Especially if the car is traveling short distances in the city.

 

[p07r0457]

Mobil1 0w40 is a very good oil, but not very suitable for our TGDI engines.

I disagree. So does Mercedes and Infiniti. Many Infiniti dealers use Mobil 1 0W40 Euro for their QX30 oil changes. It's also on Mercedes approved list of certified 229.5 motor oils.

A better choice would be Shell Helix Ultra 0w40, Mobił1 ESP X3 0w40 (MB 229.51 / 52), Amsoil European Car Formula0w40.

I've never seen Shell Helix Ultra 0w40 sold in any of my local stores. If it's available locally, for you, and it's priced same-or-less than Mobil 1 0W40 Euro, then you can use it. It is also listed as approved on the Mercedes Bevo list. However, I wouldn't bother running around trying to order online or source a hard-to-find oil, if you don't have to. The Mobil 1 will be perfect, and if it's easily available, then that's what people should use.

Mobil 1 ESP 3X 0W40 should not be used in the QX30. It is a MB 229.51 oil, which is intended for Diesel engines. Mercedes does NOT list this oil as approved for gas engines.

Amsoil is not certified for the MB 229.5 specification. Using this oil would not meet your obligations for maintaining warranty. Amsoil is a brand I avoid, anyway. Multi-level-marketing and Pyramid Schemes immediately make me suspicious of any product. The fact Amsoil either refuses to apply for, or fails to earn any builder certifications is also suspect. If you're out of warranty and buy into the MLM non-sense, then have fun... But if we use logic/science, there is no reason to use Amsoil, and several reasons NOT to.

For the health of the engine, it is better to change the oil every 6-8 thousand miles. Especially if the car is traveling short distances in the city.

Ugh, I find it troubling that you are making these baseless claims. Absent actual scientific evidence, people should follow the manufacturer recommendations for their vehicle maintenance. And in this case, the science supports the manufacturer recommendations. I've taken engine oil samples and submitted them to a lab. Even at 10k OCIs, the oil still has service life remaining.

Over-changing your oil will not provide you any benefit. You will waste money. You will also do additional damage to the environment.