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Anyone know where to parking lamp fuse is located please help? My driver side parking lamp went out need to check the fuse before I take it to the dealership
 

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Parking lamps are controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM).

I highly doubt there is a fuse issue, as a BCM without power would show many more symptoms than just parking lights not working.

However, to answer your question:

The BCM is powered by a 40A fuse in position 79 of fuse block 2.
The rotary light switch is powered by a 5A fuse in position 89 of fuse block 2.

The Front parking lamps are powered by the headlamp control units, which are fed by 15A fuses in positions 203 (Left) and 209 (Right) in fuse block 1. The headlamp control units listen on the CANBUS for messages published by the BCM.

The Rear parking lamps are powered directly by the BCM.



Which parking lamp is not working? Front? Rear? Both?
 

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Hello all. I’ve been wanting install LED bulbs in my mom’s ‘19 QX30 Luxe. I have no personal experience with LED headlight bulbs, so I have a few questions. I wanted to know the proper orientation for the LED chips. Should the chips face left and right, or up and down in the projector housings?

Also, from skimming through this thread, it looks like Hikari from Amazon seems to be the most popular. On other forums I follow, people really like Morimoto LEDs from Retrofit Source or VLed bulbs from a Vleds. Both run close to $200. Has anyone tried these bulbs?

My final question is will LED bulbs throw error codes, and if resistors would be necessary? I ask because I put LED bulbs in the brake/turn signal lights to my Grand Cherokee. It threw a code and would hyper-flash flash. The fix was to run a resistor.
 

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Hello all. I’ve been wanting install LED bulbs in my mom’s ‘19 QX30 Luxe. I have no personal experience with LED headlight bulbs, so I have a few questions. I wanted to know the proper orientation for the LED chips. Should the chips face left and right, or up and down in the projector housings?

Also, from skimming through this thread, it looks like Hikari from Amazon seems to be the most popular. On other forums I follow, people really like Morimoto LEDs from Retrofit Source or VLed bulbs from a Vleds. Both run close to $200. Has anyone tried these bulbs?

My final question is will LED bulbs throw error codes, and if resistors would be necessary? I ask because I put LED bulbs in the brake/turn signal lights to my Grand Cherokee. It threw a code and would hyper-flash flash. The fix was to run a resistor.
Typically the LED chips face on the sides (Left & Right). Make sure you get a set of bulbs with resistors. Usually they are built with the bulb, so all you have to is plug it in and you should be all set. You may have to adjust the beam.
 

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Thx for the response Alex! When you talk about adjusting the beam, I assume you are talking about doing it by adjusting the housing?

As for the built in resistors, do they get very hot? I know for my tail light LED resistors, I had to mount them on a metal surface to help dissipate the generated heat. I tested some cheap over the counter resistors and they hit almost 300F after 3 minutes of constant current. I ended up running VLed bulbs with their inline resistor. Their resistor hit about 180-200F running constantly for 3 minutes.
 

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Thx for the response Alex! When you talk about adjusting the beam, I assume you are talking about doing it by adjusting the housing?

As for the built in resistors, do they get very hot? I know for my tail light LED resistors, I had to mount them on a metal surface to help dissipate the generated heat. I tested some cheap over the counter resistors and they hit almost 300F after 3 minutes of constant current. I ended up running VLed bulbs with their inline resistor. Their resistor hit about 180-200F running constantly for 3 minutes.
Some LED bulbs allow you to adjust the beam by turning the back of the bulb assembly itself. The resistors are not like the ones you mentioned for taillights. They look like these for example (The rectangle that says Sealight). They are usually built into the bulb so all you have to do is plug it into your car and tuck the wires away.
61ePG5Yk5GL._AC_SL1200_.jpg
 

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That box is not a "resistor" but rather an LED driver.

The reason many newer vehicles throw a code or flash rapidly is because of one of two reasons:
  1. They are using an older-style mechanical flasher relay. These are calibrated for the current draw of a typical incandescent bulb, and LEDs that draw much less power cause them to cycle quickly. In this scenario, adding a resistor increases the load on the circuit and if you get the current draw in the appropriate range, then the flasher will behave more as expected. You should NOT add a resistor unless absolutely required, however. They are wasteful and can get HOT (they just convert current to heat).
  2. Newer vehicles may also have circuitry in their BCM to check current draw on the lighting circuits and may throw a code or warning indicator if the current draw is not within it's expected range. This is to signal a problem, such as a burnt-out bulb or electrical fault.
 
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Thanks everyone for dropping all the LED knowledge! Ive messed with HID swaps before but I’m new to the LED game.

Ive tried to do some Google research on LED chip orientation in a projector, but found nothing. I did find that in reflector housing, the chips should face left and right. From my limited knowledge on LEDs/projectors, I’d think that a better orientation would be up and down. This is based purely on speculation.

the attached pic shows how a projector disperses light. With the LED facing up/down, it SEEMS like the light From the LED would be more efficiently?!?
60539590-47A5-4E82-9E15-DBCABEFCF1AD.jpeg
 

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It really depends on the headlight housing and how it was designed. The ones in our cars were designed for halogen bulbs, so I don't really know what direction would be best...
 

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I posted this question to a reputable bulb vendor and I’ll post their reply as soon as I get it.

on a different topic, in the QX’s with factory LED headlights, are those LEDs replaceable or are they integrated up into the housings???
 

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I posted this question to a reputable bulb vendor and I’ll post their reply as soon as I get it.

on a different topic, in the QX’s with factory LED headlights, are those LEDs replaceable or are they integrated up into the housings???
I honestly have no clue. I'm curious myself what that design is like.
 

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in the QX’s with factory LED headlights, are those LEDs replaceable or are they integrated up into the housings???
Integrated. They're not intended to be user-serviceable.
 

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Got the response from Headlight Revolution:

Glad you are looking to upgrade your lighting! Setting the lights facing east and west is still the best option for projectors, they usually have a shroud that covers part of the projector to get a proper beam pattern. If the bulb is facing up and down then 50% of the output can be cut out.
 

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You guys weren’t kidding when you said it was a tight fit to get to the bulbs! I went to my moms house to ATTEMPT the install. I got as far as opening the flap and removing the bulb cover, but stopped there. I’ll have to lug my jack, stands and sockets over there some time this week to complete the job.

I ended up purchasing the HIKARI ULTRAS btw. I was looking at the GTRs, but decided that it wasn’t worth twice the price over the HIKARIs, since this is my first plunge in the LED game, and my mother doesn’t drive at night too often.
 
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